Basic Grow Kit setup >> Casing Kit Instructions Here

If you have bought a magic mushroom grow kit from us then these are the instructions you will need. >> MORE INFO HERE

A quick description of the procedure: A substrate is sealed in pint jars and sterilized in a pressure cooker. Spores or cultures are added to the substrate using a syringe full of spore solution. The spores germinate, creating a living mycelium that colonizes the entire jar full of substrate. The resulting "cakes" are removed from the jars when fully colonized, and placed in a terrarium until mushrooms begin to grow from the cakes.

 

Equipment for Inoculation

Glove Box
If you’re concerned about sterility, a good way to accomplish this is to purchase a "glove box," an enclosed, semi-sealed box with holes for gloves to go through and a see-through top. Clean, at least 12" tall and at least 16" wide by 16" deep. 

Equipment for Fruiting and Harvesting

Fruiting Chamber
Aquariums, camping coolers, and large plastic [Rubbermaid] storage containers are examples of suitable fruiting chambers. See Fruiting and Harvesting for a more complete description.

Perlite
Another volcanic gravel used in potting soil, perlite is white and porous. Also can be purchased for about $3.00 at most hardware/garden stores.

Colander
For draining water out of the perlite. Suitable substitutes include a piece of screen or cloth, or anything that will hold perlite but let water drain out.

Dust mask (optional)
Perlite is puffed volcanic glass. When you work with perlite, it tends to be dusty, creating a cloud of glass dust that can be harmful to the lungs, especially if you are asthmatic. Disposable dust masks can be found in hardware stores, often in the Paint section. They are very inexpensive. They can also be used to prevent breathing our germ filled air all over our your cakes and terrariums when working with them.

Equipment for Preservation

Desiccant
Desiccants are chemicals, usually sold in the form of little granular crystals, that absorb water out of the air. Our Glove Box works great too.

Procedure

Inoculation

Cleanliness Precautions
Inoculating your jars is the main step where contamination is possible, and thus must be done in as clean of an environment as possible. If the room you’re working in is clean enough, you can get away with inoculating them in open air. The needle of the syringe, if not absolutely sterile, can carry bacteria and spores from other molds into your cake, contaminating and ruining the cake. Wash your hands and face with antibacterial soap. Wear clean clothes. Anything in the area of the syringe and jars could contaminate your cakes if it is not clean. We recommend using "OUST" to sterilize the air before performing any procedures.

Inoculation: Cleanliness Simplified
Begin carefully inoculating your jars one by one with a spore syringe or culture syringe. It's a good idea to have a lighter handy as well to sterilize the needle as you go. Flame the needle until it gets very hot, then carefully squirt a little bit of spore solution (if you can spare it) to cool down the needle before sticking it in the cake. Putting a hot needle into the cake will get burnt-on rice flour all over the needle. You could also use an alcohol soaked cotton ball or a nifty alcohol burner.

Spore Injection
Once you’re ready to inoculate, shake up the spore syringe to get as many spores as possible off the sides of the syringe and into the water. Carefully remove the cap over the syringe needle and slide the needle into one of the holes in the jar lid. Shove it all the way in, so that the needle goes into the cake itself. This is where a lot of people make the mistake of shooting the spore solution in the top or bottom vermiculite layer within the jar, and not hitting the actual center layer of substrate. Gently squeeze out about  1/4 cc of spore solution into each hole in each jar. That's 1 cc per jar basically.

Be careful that nothing but the jar and substrate touch the needle, and re-cap it immediately after using it to avoid contaminating the needle. Wipe the syringe with your cotton ball every time you come in and out of the jar. Also be careful of using too much spore solution. With spore syringes it can be easy to accidentally push the plunger on the syringe too forcefully and dump out way too much solution. Once each jar is inoculated, it is ready for incubation. There is no need to put tape over the holes in the lid, because the dry vermiculite will keep out any contaminants.

Incubation
Now the jars need to be  incubated at about 75-85 degrees F for several weeks. If you have a room that is constantly kept in this general range, this is a good place to incubate your jars. If not, you will need to find some other source of heat to keep them in that temperature range. Our stand alone incubators work great and will hold the temps you need to warm your jars. They come with almost every kit  Be careful not to use any heat source that could cause fires; a heating pad will usually work. A good investment here is a thermometer that keeps track of highest and lowest temperatures, so you can see how hot or cold your cakes are getting. If they get too cold, their growth will slow considerably, and if they get too hot, they will lose water and eventually die. (They will usually die if they ever get above 95 degrees F)

Incubation Setup

If your kit came with an incubator then you will want to first look for the two plastic chambers that do not have filters on them. There will only be 1 lid for these 2 containers. Take the heater and place in the bottom of one chamber and run the cord out the side. Set the temp to 86 degrees on the heater. Fill the chamber with enough water so that it completely submerges the heater in water. Plug in your heater and slide the other plastic container inside the one with the water. Place your jars and temp gauge probe into the second chamber and close the top.
    

Mycelial Growth
The first signs of mycelial growth should appear within 5-7 days. If none appear within two weeks, something went wrong. (Perhaps the cake was not cooled completely before inoculation, and the heat killed the spores, or the spores simply did not make it into the cake.) This type of mushroom mycelium will always be a brilliant white fuzz, often growing in ropy strands. This ropy type of growth is called rhizomorphic growth, and is a sign that the mycelium will probably fruit very well. Any other color of mold, including some less brilliantly white molds (cobweb mold, for example, is white but not so thick, and it does look a lot like cobwebs.), is a sign of contamination. A contaminated cake will not recover and, except in very rare instances, will never produce mushrooms.

The Fruiting Chamber (Terrarium)
If you didn't purchase a kit then don't worry, many different things can be used for a fruiting chambers, including camping coolers, aquariums, and large plastic containers (Rubbermaid brand or similar containers work great). The fruiting chamber must be at least 6-8" (15-20cm) tall, and have enough floor space for the cakes to be arranged with at least 1" (2.5cm) of free space on all sides. Spread the cakes out as much as possible so that the mushrooms have room to grow. If the chamber is much too tall or too large, it may be difficult to keep the humidity high enough. The bottom of the chamber must be able to contain water, and the lid must be somewhat airtight in order to keep the humidity inside high. Light must be able to shine into the terrarium.

Birthing the Cakes
Once a cake is completely covered in white mycelium, wait at least 1-2 more days before taking the cake out of the jar. When you are ready, and in a fairly clean room, begin transferring the cakes from their jars onto a clean piece of aluminum foil. Then wash the jars out really well with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly. Let them dry and then place your cakes back into the jars. Fill the jars to the lid with cool spring water. Place a piece of saran wrap over the lids and fasten the tops on. Throw them in the fridge for 24 hours. This is called "dunking". It helps rejuvenate your cake to help it with future flushes. It is also recommended that you "dunk" your cake between every flush to ensure maximum results. After removing the cakes from the jars again into the fruiting chamber they go. 

Inducing Fruiting (Producing Mushrooms)
In order to initiate fruiting, three main conditions must be met for the cakes:

First, they need light. Only a dim light is needed. A fluorescent lamp or indirect sunlight is plenty of light. Mushrooms do not gain energy from the light like plants do, but in this particular species of mushroom light sends a signal to the mycelium that it is time to produce mushrooms. A source with a wide spectrum of light, especially containing lots of blue light (daylight and fluorescent plant lights are very good examples of light with lots of blue) is best, but a low wattage (15 watts is plenty) incandescent light bulb will supply enough light.

Second, they need a fairly high humidity. 90-95% humidity is a good range for fruiting. The best and easiest way to do this is by lining the bottom of the fruiting chamber with damp perlite. A common mistake is to get the perlite too wet, and end up with a swamp of water and perlite that is very difficult to clean up, and will drown the cakes. Get enough perlite to make at least 1" (2.5 cm) thick layer on the bottom of the fruiting chamber, and put it into a colander, strainer, or cloth enclosure that it can’t slip out of. Wet it thoroughly with normal tap water, and let the water drain out. Then move the perlite into the fruiting chamber and smooth out the surface. You now have a layer of damp perlite that the cakes can be set directly on, and which will keep the humidity in the chamber high enough for the cakes to fruit. By the time your cakes have stopped producing mushrooms, the perlite might start getting a little bit skunky smelling. If you want to reuse it, put it in a baking pan and cook it at 350 degrees in your oven until it is dry. Let it cool, and it’s ready to be used again. You can also add some Hydrogen Peroxide to the wet perlite to help it stay clean a bit longer.

Lastly, it is a good idea to lower the temperature range a bit, to about 75-80 degrees F. Like the light, this signals the cakes to begin fruiting. However, most strains of Psilocybe Cubensis fruit so easily that lowering the temperature is not absolutely necessary.

Remove your cakes from the jars and place them in your grow chamber on top of your lids or some foil, but not directly on the perlite. Make sure you have added enough water to the 1 inch layer of perlite so that it has absorbed all of the water but there is no standing water.

Pinning, Fruiting, and Harvesting
For the first week or two, the cakes will generally not do anything. Then, very small bumps, called "pins," "pinheads," or "primordia" will begin to grow out of the surface of the cake. These are the beginnings of mushrooms. Many will never grow any larger. However, some will grow until they are full-grown mushrooms. A mushroom is ready to be picked when the edge of the cap tears away from the "stem" (the stem of a mushroom is called the stipe). Often, there will be a thin veil between the cap and stipe. If this is present, you can wait until the veil tears before picking the mushroom.

 To pick a mushroom, grasp it near the base where it is joined to the cake, and gently twist it until it comes off. Immediately begin the process of preserving it, either by refrigerating it or by drying it, mushrooms will begin to rot immediately. Each cake will produce about 1-3 waves or "flushes" of mushrooms, normally with 2-5 days of dormancy between flushes. After about a month or so of fruiting, most cakes will be spent, and will not produce any more mushrooms unless rehydrated by dunking underwater for 24 hours, see dunk tek at mycotopia.
 

Aborts
Some of the pinheads will begin to grow, then suddenly stop before they become full-grown mushrooms. These are known as aborts (aborted mushrooms). Aborts are just as good for eating as full-grown mushrooms, but they must be picked before they begin to rot. A mushroom that has mold growing on it or which has black goo in the center of the stem is rotten and is not safe to eat. It is often difficult for beginners to identify an aborted mushroom before it begins to decompose. Early warning signs include a halt in growth of the mushroom, and a greenish tinge around the dark colored tip of the primordia that will eventually become the cap of the mushroom. Always completely remove aborts from the cake, even if they are too rotten to eat, because they can get moldy and cause the cake to get infected.

Preservation Methods - order info click here

Refrigeration
If you will be consuming your mushrooms fairly soon after picking them, you can keep them in your refrigerator, in a paper bag. Don’t use a plastic bag to store fresh mushrooms, this will cause them to mold. Fresh mushrooms are reportedly stronger than dried ones, but can be more difficult to dose. Also, Cubensis is a particularly nasty tasting species of mushroom, especially when fresh. Many people prefer to dry their mushrooms before consuming simply because drying will kill some of the bad flavor. It should also be noted that some people like the taste of Cubensis, and that the flavor of Cubensis can vary depending on which strain was used and under what conditions it was grown.

Drying
The best way to preserve mushrooms is to dry them as soon as possible after picking. It is very important when drying that the mushrooms never be exposed to heat. Psilocybin and Psilocin, the main active chemicals in Psilocybe mushrooms, are heat-sensitive chemicals that will break down if exposed to heat. You can get away with drying them in the sun, but expect some loss in potency. Another common method of drying is to put the mushrooms in an enclosed container, like a covered bowl, that also contains some desiccant. While drying mushrooms using desiccant will dry them very thoroughly, it will also take a very long time, giving the mushrooms more time to decompose.

Another way to dry mushrooms is with the use of moving air. Triple Helix's Glove Box's do just that. It is a beautiful multi-tasking tool that allows you to perform sterile work as well as a large chamber to dry your babies when harvested. 

Other Mushroom Drying Techniques Talked about at

The best overall method for drying mushrooms is to first dry them using moving air, then, if necessary, put them into a desiccant chamber to remove the last little bit of moisture that remains in the mushrooms. You want your mushrooms to be bone dry and brittle. If they feel flexible, they are probably not totally dry. Store the dried mushrooms in a sealed container, away from heat and light. You can make sure that they stay dry by putting some desiccant into the storage container with them. The little desiccant packets that come in vitamin bottles will work to some extent. You can also make your own desiccant packets by wrapping up about a teaspoon of desiccant granules in a paper towel and securing the packet with rubber bands or tape.

SETTING UP THE WHITE RABBIT

First you will need to clean and sterilize everything that you received in your package with warm soapy water and a little alcohol or light bleach solution.
Put the submersible heater down in the bottom of the largest chamber that you received that doesn't have any holes in it. It should be the clear plastic tub. Position the heater in the middle of the chamber, fill about 1/3 with water and a cap full of household bleach and set to desired temperature. NOTE: this heater is submersible. It can be completely underwater with the cord running out of the side. Do not drill any holes!

Now you will want to slide your grow chamber on top of your incubator. This is the chamber with the small hole drilled in the side. Set it right on top so that it floats right on top of the water in the incubator. The temp gauge itself reads the temp and the little gauge on the wire can read inside the box when the regular gauge is outside the box.

The humidifier has an intake and an outtake. The hose leading from the air pump should be leading into the intake of the humidifier. That is the hose with the little blue ball on it. (water diffuser) This means that the air pump is blowing air into the humidifier. The outtake hose on the humidifier should be connected with the hose that goes to the grow chamber. Fill the humidifier with spring water and screw on the top. You will want to refill this humidifier when it gets low. Adding a cap full of peroxide to the humidifier will help fight contams.

The hose that comes from your humidifier into the chamber is to provide moist clean air to your grow chamber. Simply attach the hose to the rod if it is not already attached for you. You can position however you like inside the chamber. The suction cups for the tube is in the humidifier for packaging purposes. Use some good, strong tape and make sure not to cover any of the holes on the rod.

Your timer is digital and very easy to use. Simply follow the instructions on the back. We recommend that you use these techniques when using the White Rabbit with the timer.

Cake method = 2 inch *wetted layer of perlite at the bottom of the White Rabbit. run for 1 hour every 12 hours.

Casing techniques = No perlite. Timer set at 15-30 minute intervals every 3 hours

*Add enough spring water to the perlite to where it is completely absorbed and there is a little water left over.

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